FAQ r1.6

                            

Speed/Distance signal

 

1.  Do I need the reed switch and magnet?

 

If your bike has a mechanical (cable-driven) speedometer, yes.

There is no electronic signal to tap into, so the PRO-OILER needs to generate its own signal to register the distance covered.

 

However, since the mid-90's more and more bikes are being fitted with electronic speedometers, and currently most large and middleweight bikes have one.

 

If your bike has an electronic speedo, then under normal circumstances, you would be best off configuring the PRO-OILER for speedo-sensor operation.

 

The main reason is that, whilst quality reed switches like those used by PRO-OILER are in and of themselves very reliable, there's a range of every-day hazards - like pulling on the wires or knocking the switch out of position at wheel-change time.

 

Once the electrical connection is made tapping the electronic speedo signal wire, then that's it - so the electronic speedo version is potentially more reliable.

 

Last but not least, tapping the speedomter signal wire is easier than installing the reed switch and magnet combo.

 

 

2.  I already have a PRO-OILER with a reed switch and magnet setup - can I swap to the speedometer sensor version?

 

If your bike has a mechanical speedometer, no.

 

On the other hand if you have an electronic speedometer, then yes, you can swap.

PRO-OILER operates a part-exchange scheme to allow you to upgrade - see the SHOP on the PRO-OILER website for details.

 

Do you need to swap?

No - it just depends how you feel about the reed switch setup, and whether you are affected by cosmetic considerations.

 

If you are changing bike, and your new one has an electronic speedo, then this probably would be the time to swap.

 

3.  What are the differences in operation between using the speedo sensor vs the reed switch?

 

In operation, there is no difference at all between the two.

So, your settings and tables are all strictly the same.

 

However, what you need to understand is that the PRO-OILER has 2 completely separate circuits for dealing with the incoming signals.

Put simply:

For reed switch operation:

Connect the white wire on block #4 in the junction box.

The PRO-OILER controller provides the power for the switch. The 2 wires connected on blocks 1+2 in the junction box are for signal and earth.

 

For speedo sensor operation:

Connect the blue wire on block #4 in the junction box.

Most speedo sensors are the Hall Effect type. The bike's own computer provides the power and earth. Just the signal wire is connected in the junction box (on block #1).

There are many different voltages in use, so the PRO-OILER is configured deal with any + voltage up to 12V. The PRO-OILER does not in any way modify the signal, as this could affect the speedometer.

 

4.  What is the "correction factor"

 

The PRO-OILER's operating system thinks in terms of "wheel revolutions per pump stroke".

All settings are expressed in this way - for example, table 10 setting 3 = 2992 revolutions per pump stroke.

 

In the reed switch case, 1x wheel revolution = 1x signal = 1:1 ratio

 

However, for the speedo signal, there are a huge range of possible signals per wheel revolution.

 

Example 1: sensor placed at the back wheel, reading off the disc bolts.

There may be 6x signals per revolution.

 

Example 2: sensor placed at the front sprocket.

Here there's many variations, but there's also the bikes gearing to think about.

The typical front sprocket spins around 3x faster that the rear sprocket. If there are 6x signals per front sprocket revolution, and the gearing is 16F:43R, this gives:

6 x 43/16 = 6 x 2.69 = 16.14

 

Don't worry, you don't need to know how many signals the sensor generates, or even know your bikes gearing.

 

You use the PRO-OILER's signal-counting mode to work out how many signals there are per wheel revolution. Turn the wheel 5x by hand (the more turns the more precise the result), then simply divide the figure shown on the controller's display by the number of turns - this is your "correction factor"

 

In example 2, we need to programme the correction factor of 16.14 into the controller, so we come back to our 1:1 ratio.

 

Notes:

·          Manufacturers do not normally give the specification for the sensors signal - so most of the time there's no way of knowing how many pulses there are per revolution without actually counting them.

·          Because the manufacturers can (and do) change the pulses per revolution used by their speedometers, PRO-OILER cannot assume anything. This is the reason it's essential to do the pulse-counting excercise!

 

 

Important Note:

 

·        If the correction factor is = 00.00, the controller expects input on the white reed switch signal wire (and will ignore input on the blue wire)

·        If the correction factor  is 00.01 or greater, the controller expects input on the blue sensor signal wire (and will ignore input on the white wire)

 

In other words, the controller uses the correction factor to decide which circuit to use.

 

 

Safety Warning:

 

Do not run the bike with an incorrect correction factor!

In particular, if you programme a lower value than the real value, you can create a dangerously over-rich oil delivery, which can result in an accident due to excessive oil on the tyre.

Example: If you leave the unit programmed with a value of 01.00 when the real value is 17.33 - you will have 17.33 times more oil than required.

 

This is a genuine, serious warning - not of the "Do not dry your dog in the microwave" type!